Sewing Hack: Learn to modify a raincoat pattern step by step with Sasha

My name is Sasha and I’m the designer and maker behind Secondopiano. For me a pattern is just a starting point. That’s why, when I saw the Katia Fabrics raincoat pattern, I immediately wondered how I could modify it to reflect my personal style and taste. Without worrying about adjusting the pattern, because the KatiaFabrics sewing patterns fit perfectly, I made the following sewing hack.

raincoat tutorial

sewing hack rain jacket

Sewing Hack

First, I chose the Waterproof Women’s Rain fabric with a beautiful and dreamy print. Without a doubt, it is an ideal Lady Desidia design to illuminate the rainy days. I prefer using strong prints with parsimony so I shortened the pattern to mid hip and added an elastic drawstring.

The position of the pockets went up a bit and I added a comfortable side entry. I added a corduroy flat collar that nicely finishes the neckline when I wear the jacket open. The drawstring that completes the collar adds a modern twist to an otherwise classic design.

detail elastic drawstring

To sew the collar on I sandwiched it between the hood and the facings

collar detail collar illustrations


I would have preferred the hood a bit bigger: to wear it up I have to undo my hair. When copying the pattern I realized that the hood cover was incomplete, the centerpiece of the hood was missing. I wrote to Katia and they promptly sent the correction and they added an errata on the website. Points to Katia for customer support 🙂

Women’s waterproof jacket pattern

Change some details to get a truly waterproof jacket. I turned the center front seams toward the inside by adding 5mm to the center front of the front pattern piece and trimming 5mm from the center front of the front-facing piece.

Also, I also modified the cuffs of the sleeves to better hold against rain by making a wide cuff finished with elastic on the inside – a detail often present in technical jackets.

detail cuffs raincoat sewing hack

cuffs illustrations


I added snap buttons on the covers that I reinforced with small pieces of thermo-adhesive interlining. Next, I waterproofed all exposed seams with a 2 cm
wide transparent seam sealing tape that I cut lengthwise in two to get 1 cm wide. In this video show how to apply the tape and achieve waterproof seams.

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Una publicación compartida de Sasha W. (@sasha_secondopiano) el

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rainjacket sewing hack

And here the step by step to learn how to modify a raincoat pattern. Of course, we will enjoy the rainy days with this jacket. If you dare to apply this sewing hack to your raincoat, I recommend that you make a larger size to wear thicker winter clothes.


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