We know that being confronted with so many lines on a sewing pattern can be a little overwhelming. Therefore, in this step by step post, we are giving you all the information that you need to help make it really easy for you to start sewing straight away.
Learn the tips and tricks required so you know how to easily trace and cut the Katia Fabrics sewing patterns.
As explained in this previous POST, the first thing you have to do is choose the pattern size that fits your measurements best.
Tracing and cutting patterns
The next step is to trace your pattern size onto sheets of tissue paper or a roll of translucent paper. Hold the paper in place with weights, or something similar, so it doesn’t move when on top of the pattern. Using a pencil, trace around the pattern lines of your size. Remember to copy all the notches and stitch markings like pleats, fold lines, button position, etc.
Also make sure to identify each piece and write what it is on the pattern, for example: Front blouse model 2d size 8
Cut each pattern piece with scissors used specifically for cutting paper.
Once all the pattern pieces have been cut out, fold the fabric as indicated by the pattern cutting plan. For example, if it is necessary to cut any pieces on the fold, keep this in mind. If the fabric has a directional design you must also take care not to place any of the pattern pieces in the wrong direction.
Position the paper pattern pieces on top of the fabric in the correct direction, as indicated by the fabric grain line, and secure in place with pins. You can also use sewing weights or something heavy that will serve the same function.
In the case of our Katia Fabrics patterns, the seam allowance is included on the pattern so you do not need to add it. You can cut out the pieces using fabric scissors, or a rotary cutter, directly along the paper pattern edges.
Mark the notches, pleats, button position, or any other important markings needed when sewing on the fabric, with a fabric marker pen or tailor’s chalk.
– You have two options for the notches. You can make a small cut in the fabric with the tip of the scissors or using a good thread cutter, or you can draw a small dot or dash on the fabric using a fabric marker pen.
– In the case of a pleat or button placement, use tailor’s chalk or loosely sewn basting stitches.
Once you have made all the relevant marking and notches on the pattern pieces, remove the pins. Now your pattern pieces are ready and you can start to sew.
Here we show you two ways to mark a pleat on the fabric:
1. Place a pin in the point of the pleat passing it through both layers of the fabric. Carefully lift up the pattern paper piece and using a fabric marker pen or tailor’s chalk mark the point where the pin goes through the fabric on both reverse sides of the fabric. Then mark the lines that go from the pleat point to the two pleat notches. In this way you’ll have the full pleat marked on both reverse sides of the fabric.
2. Another option you have, especially for more problematic fabrics, is to work a loose row of basting stitches along the pleat line passing through both layers of the fabric together. When completed, open out the fabric and cut along the basting stitches. In this way you have marked the pleat onto the other side of the fabric.
Now you really do have all your pieces ready to sew and you can start making a really cool top like this one!
Notches: Small cuts in the fabric that serve as reference points to match together when joining the pattern pieces.
Pleat: Fold of fabric that is sewn to create volume.
Fabric Grain line: Indicates direction which is parallel to the edges of the fabric. This is marked on the pattern pieces by a line with an arrowhead at each end.