My name is Siona and I’m from Madrid, although the famous ‘mojo picón’ sauce from the Canary Islands “runs through my yarns”. It may sound a little crazy, but knitting is one of the most important things in my life. Above all, I like knitting socks best. They seem like the perfect project to take with you wherever you go. For this reason, I am happy to be sharing the pattern for my Santa Pazienzia socks, made in Kashwool, with you. Follow the lace stitch pattern and discover how to knit toe-up socks using the Magic Loop method. I started these socks before the ‘new normality’ and feel like they represent, in a way, the power of friendship during these times. When something isn’t going well and a virtual hug suddenly appears. I hope these socks bring you the sense of patience that we sometimes need so much!
Toe-Up Socks using the Magic Loop
The Santa Pazienzia socks are knitted using the toe-up technique, which means they are made from the toe up to the leg part. This is very useful when you use left overs from your yarn stash. For example, you can start your socks and knit the leg section as long as the ball of yarn will go for. Furthermore, with toe-up socks you avoid being left without enough yarn to knit the toe part. If you usually knit socks using the classic method, from the leg cuff to the toe, don’t be afraid! The Santa Pazienzia socks are the perfect project to get you started on the toe-up technique using a Magic Loop. Discover the Magic Loop technique using circular needles and have fun knitting in the round. Moreover, you can knit the socks one by one or both together at the same time.
Santa Pazienzia Pattern by Siona
Size. European: 40 / UK: 6 ½ / US: 9
Materials. 1 ball col. 302 Kashwool de Concept by Katia, left over yarn in the same weight in a contrasting colour, circular knitting needles: size 2 (U.S.)/2.5mm with a 32” (80 cm)cable, 2 stitch markers: each one in a different colour, crochet hook and wool sewing needle
- K2 tog – knit two stitches together
- inc – increase: use the tip of the LH needles to pick up the bar of yarn, from front to back, between the stitches and knit
- RS – right side of work
- dec – decrease/ slip 1 stitch, knit 1 stitch, pass slipped stitch over
- YO – wrap yarn over needle
- St(s)– stitch(es)
- k– knit stitch
- K1tbl – knit one stitch through back of loop
- p – purl stitch
- WS – wrong side of work
- rep – repeat
- R(s) –row(s)
Gauge. The measurements are taken after blocking the sample swatch. Using the size 2 needles in stockinette st: 22 sts & 34 rows = 4×4” (10×10 cm)
The socks are made up of the following sections:
- Foot (sole+instep)
- Contrast line
- Leg section
- Heel afterthought
- These socks are worked in the round using the magic loop method.
- They are made separately, but both socks can be worked together at the same time if wanted.
- The eyelet stitch design is explained in both writing and graph format.
- The graph is read from right to left and from bottom to top.
- All the repeats which are shown between asterisks ** are worked until the end of the row.
- The instructions are for a size 40 sock with 28 sts on each needle (56 sts in total), but they can be adapted to other sizes with the help of the measurement charts (at the end of the pattern). To do this, use a rule of 3 and respect the 14 sts repeat of the eyelet stitch design.
- The width of the sock must be a little smaller than the true width of the foot because the sock yarn is elastic and will adapt to size.
- The length of the sock should be around 2 3/4″ (7 cm) less than the total length when arriving at the contrast line.
- There should be a third of the sts left at the heel before casting them off.
Cast on 10 sts on each needle (20 sts in total) using the Turkish cast on method (see video).
R1: K1, 1 inc, k until there is 1 st left on the needle, 1 inc, K1.
R2: K3, 1 inc, k until there are 3 sts left on the needle, 1 inc, K3.
R3: rep R1
R4: rep R2
R6-11: rep R3-5 two more times
R13: rep R1.
R14: knit (56 sts = 28 sts on each needle).
Turkish Cast On
Knitting in the round magic loop
Make One Increase
Work the sole in stockinette st and the instep in the eyelet design (see graph).
R1: K28, *dec, K4, YO, K2, YO, K4, K2 tog *, rep from *to*.
R2: K28, *dec, K3, YO, K4, YO, K3, K2 tog *, rep from *to*.
R3: K28, *dec, K2, YO, K6, YO, K2, K2 tog *, rep from *to*.
R4: K28, *dec, K1, YO, K8, YO, K1, K2 tog *, rep from *to*.
R5: K28, *dec, YO, K10, YO, K2 tog *, rep from *to*.
R6: K28, *K1, YO, K4, K2 tog, dec, K4, YO, K1 *, rep from *to*.
R7: K28, *K2, YO, K3, YO, K2 tog, dec, K3, YO, K2 *, rep from *to*.
R8: K28, *K3, YO, K2, K2 tog, dec, K2, YO, K3 *, rep from *to*.
R9: K28, *K4, YO, K1, K2 tog, dec, K1, YO, K4 *, rep from *to*.
R10: K28, *K5, YO, K2 tog, dec, YO, K5 *, rep from *to*.
Rep R1-10 6 more times.
Using the contrast colour yarn, K28 sts on the sole. Cut the yarn and secure in place with a knot on the wrong side of the work.
Return the 28 sts from the sole onto the LH needle and work above the contrast line as follows:
R1: *dec, K4, YO, K2, YO K2 tog *, rep from *to*.
R2: *dec, K3, YO, K4, YO, K3, K2 tog *, rep from *to*.
R3: *dec, K2, YO, K6, YO, K2, K2 tog *, rep from *to*.
R4: *dec, K1, YO, K8, YO, K1, K2 tog *, rep from *to*.
R5: *dec, YO, K10, YO, K2 tog *, rep from *to*.
R6: *K1, YO, K4, K2 tog, dec, K4, YO, K1 *, rep from *to*.
R7: *K2, YO, K3, YO, K2 tog, dec, K3, YO, K2 *, rep from *to*.
R8: * K3, YO, K2, K2 tog, dec, K2, YO, K3 *, rep from *to*.
R9: *K4, YO, K1, K2 tog, dec, K1, YO, K4 *, rep from *to*.
R10: *K5, YO, K2 tog, dec, YO, K5 *, rep from *to*.
Rep R1-10 3 more times or until the required length is reached.
Work 1 1/8” (3cm) in twisted 1×1 ribbing: *K1, K1tbl *, rep from *to*.
Bind (cast off) the sts in ribbing (see video).
Jeny’s Suprisingly Stretchy Bind Off
Use the needle to pick up the stitches on top and below the contrast line then remove the line.
Place a stitch marker at the start of the row and use a crochet hook to pick up 1 st at each side to avoid holes forming = 4 more sts (32 sts).
R1: *K1, dec, k until there are 3 sts left on the needle, K2 tog, K1 *, rep from *to*.
Rep R1-2 until there are 10 heel sts left on the needle.
Close the heel using Kitchener stitch (see video)