{"id":94903,"date":"2018-08-31T11:00:42","date_gmt":"2018-08-31T09:00:42","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.katia.com\/blog\/grainline\/"},"modified":"2023-06-14T10:21:19","modified_gmt":"2023-06-14T08:21:19","slug":"grainline","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.katia.com\/blog\/en\/grainline\/","title":{"rendered":"What does cut on the grainline mean? Learn the difference on fabric between the lengthwise grain, the crosswise grain and the bias"},"content":{"rendered":"

It\u2019s back to school time again and we\u2019re sharing a series of posts all about basic sewing <\/span><\/span>concepts<\/b><\/span><\/span>. <\/span><\/span>These are very important for all of you who are just beginning. <\/span><\/span>Today, in particular, we want to explain to you about a term that you will come across on many occasions when you\u2019re going to make up any <\/span><\/span>pattern<\/b><\/span><\/span>: Cut on the grainline.\u00a0<\/span><\/span>With sewing, as with any other hobbies, there\u2019s a specific vocabulary that applies to certain techniques and materials. And it\u2019s very important to know what these terms mean beforehand.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

\"grainline<\/p>\n

Cut on the grainline
\n<\/span><\/h2>\n

All fabrics have a determined <\/span><\/span>width<\/b><\/span><\/span> and you can buy the <\/span><\/span>length<\/b><\/span><\/span> required for each project. In our case Katia Fabrics are 59\u201d (150 cm) wide. In our <\/span><\/span>online shop<\/u><\/span><\/span><\/span> you can see that the minimum length available for sale is 19 5\/8\u201d (50 cm). For longer lengths add multiples of 3 7\/8\u201d (10 cm).<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

\"grainline<\/p>\n

Each edge that defines the fabric width is called the selvedge. Each selvedge is different depending on the fabric: frayed, different colour, with text etc. On our Katia Fabrics<\/a> you will always find the logo printed on one of the selvedge edges.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

\"grainline<\/p>\n

All <\/span><\/span>fabrics<\/b><\/span><\/span> have three different thread directions: vertical or the warp, horizontal or the weft and diagonal or the bias.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

Correctly positioning and cutting out pattern pieces on the grain is something that should be learn when starting out so that the optimum appearance and correct hang of the garment is achieved. On our pattern pieces you will find a double arrow that indicates the direction of the grain and must be placed parallel to the selvedge (unless otherwise stated).<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

\"grainline,<\/p>\n

WARP<\/span><\/h3>\n

The warp threads are the vertical threads that run parallel to the selvedge. The majority of garments are cut on the warp because the fabric does not stretch in this direction which ensures that the hang of the garment is correct. In fact, if you pull two points close to each other along the warp threads you will see that the fabric does not stretch and it stays rigid. This is with the exception of jersey and elastic fabrics of course.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

Tip: If the fabric has a raised surface like velvet, corduroy or a synthetic fur type fabric, always cut from top to bottom going with the direction of the nap or furry surface. If you pass your hand over the fabric and it stays flat and smooth this is the correct direction of the warp.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

WEFT<\/span><\/h3>\n

The weft threads are the ones that run horizontally from one selvedge to the other. They are perpendicular to the weft threads.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

Some garments or garment pieces are cut on the weft. When matching a print design or to avoid certain areas becoming deformed. Blouse yokes can also be cut on the weft. If you pull two points close to each other along the weft threads you will see that the fabric gives slightly.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

BIAS<\/span><\/h3>\n

The diagonal direction that is at a 45\u00ba angle with the selvedge is known as the Bias. Cutting on the bias creates a lot of elasticity and gives a spectacular drape to garments. Like, for example, the typical flared skirts from the 1950s.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

If you pull two points close to each other along the bias you will see that the fabric stretches a lot.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

Thanks to its elasticity the bias is perfect for cutting strips of fabric that can be used for finishing off necklines and armholes.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

TIP: It is very important to identify the fabric grainline because it is going to determine how you position the pattern pieces on the fabric correctly.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

\"grainline<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

It\u2019s back to school time again and we\u2019re sharing a series of posts all about basic sewing concepts. These are very important for all of you who are just beginning. Today, in particular, we want to explain to you about a term that you will come across on many occasions when you\u2019re going to make…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":6,"featured_media":119708,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"inline_featured_image":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[11919,11923],"tags":[],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nWhat does cut on the grainline mean? lengthwise, crosswise and bias<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"What does cut on the grainline mean? Learn the difference on fabrics between the lengthwise grain, the crosswise grain and the bias.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.katia.com\/blog\/en\/grainline\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"What does cut on the grainline mean? lengthwise, crosswise and bias\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"What does cut on the grainline mean? Learn the difference on fabrics between the lengthwise grain, the crosswise grain and the bias.\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/www.katia.com\/blog\/en\/grainline\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"Sewing, crochet and knitting blog | Katia blog\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:publisher\" content=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/KatiaYarns\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2018-08-31T09:00:42+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2023-06-14T08:21:19+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.katia.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/hilocontrahilobies-sliderEN-1.jpg?fit=1920%2C728&ssl=1\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"1920\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"728\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/jpeg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"Jenifer Guti\u00e9rrez | Katia Fabrics Team\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:creator\" content=\"@katiayarns\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:site\" content=\"@katiayarns\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Written by\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"Jenifer Guti\u00e9rrez | Katia Fabrics Team\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Est. reading time\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"3 minutes\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\/\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"Article\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.katia.com\/blog\/en\/grainline\/#article\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.katia.com\/blog\/en\/grainline\/\"},\"author\":{\"name\":\"Jenifer Guti\u00e9rrez | Katia Fabrics Team\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.katia.com\/blog\/en\/#\/schema\/person\/465f40fa8b2d52eedab1f09e92cec8ae\"},\"headline\":\"What does cut on the grainline mean? Learn the difference on fabric between the lengthwise grain, the crosswise grain and the bias\",\"datePublished\":\"2018-08-31T09:00:42+00:00\",\"dateModified\":\"2023-06-14T08:21:19+00:00\",\"mainEntityOfPage\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.katia.com\/blog\/en\/grainline\/\"},\"wordCount\":616,\"commentCount\":0,\"publisher\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.katia.com\/blog\/en\/#organization\"},\"articleSection\":[\"Katia 100% You\",\"Tutorials and patterns\"],\"inLanguage\":\"en-US\",\"potentialAction\":[{\"@type\":\"CommentAction\",\"name\":\"Comment\",\"target\":[\"https:\/\/www.katia.com\/blog\/en\/grainline\/#respond\"]}]},{\"@type\":\"WebPage\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.katia.com\/blog\/en\/grainline\/\",\"url\":\"https:\/\/www.katia.com\/blog\/en\/grainline\/\",\"name\":\"What does cut on the grainline mean? lengthwise, crosswise and bias\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.katia.com\/blog\/en\/#website\"},\"datePublished\":\"2018-08-31T09:00:42+00:00\",\"dateModified\":\"2023-06-14T08:21:19+00:00\",\"description\":\"What does cut on the grainline mean? Learn the difference on fabrics between the lengthwise grain, the crosswise grain and the bias.\",\"breadcrumb\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.katia.com\/blog\/en\/grainline\/#breadcrumb\"},\"inLanguage\":\"en-US\",\"potentialAction\":[{\"@type\":\"ReadAction\",\"target\":[\"https:\/\/www.katia.com\/blog\/en\/grainline\/\"]}]},{\"@type\":\"BreadcrumbList\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.katia.com\/blog\/en\/grainline\/#breadcrumb\",\"itemListElement\":[{\"@type\":\"ListItem\",\"position\":1,\"name\":\"Home\",\"item\":\"https:\/\/www.katia.com\/blog\/en\/\"},{\"@type\":\"ListItem\",\"position\":2,\"name\":\"What does cut on the grainline mean? Learn the difference on fabric between the lengthwise grain, the crosswise grain and the bias\"}]},{\"@type\":\"WebSite\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.katia.com\/blog\/en\/#website\",\"url\":\"https:\/\/www.katia.com\/blog\/en\/\",\"name\":\"www.katia.com\",\"description\":\"Tu blog de crochet, punto, costura o macram\u00e9 con tutoriales para aprender e ideas para tejer y coser piezas \u00fanicas. Blog de Katia, para esp\u00edritus creativos.\",\"publisher\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.katia.com\/blog\/en\/#organization\"},\"potentialAction\":[{\"@type\":\"SearchAction\",\"target\":{\"@type\":\"EntryPoint\",\"urlTemplate\":\"https:\/\/www.katia.com\/blog\/en\/?s={search_term_string}\"},\"query-input\":\"required name=search_term_string\"}],\"inLanguage\":\"en-US\"},{\"@type\":\"Organization\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.katia.com\/blog\/en\/#organization\",\"name\":\"Fil Katia, S.A\",\"url\":\"https:\/\/www.katia.com\/blog\/en\/\",\"logo\":{\"@type\":\"ImageObject\",\"inLanguage\":\"en-US\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.katia.com\/blog\/en\/#\/schema\/logo\/image\/\",\"url\":\"https:\/\/www.katia.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/12\/logo_katia.svg\",\"contentUrl\":\"https:\/\/www.katia.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/12\/logo_katia.svg\",\"width\":\"600\",\"height\":\"1200\",\"caption\":\"Fil Katia, S.A\"},\"image\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.katia.com\/blog\/en\/#\/schema\/logo\/image\/\"},\"sameAs\":[\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/KatiaYarns\/\",\"https:\/\/twitter.com\/katiayarns\",\"http:\/\/instagram.com\/katiayarns\",\"https:\/\/www.linkedin.com\/company\/fil-katia\/\",\"https:\/\/www.pinterest.com\/KatiaYarns\/\",\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/c\/KatiaYarnsFabrics\/videos\",\"https:\/\/www.tiktok.com\/@katiacrafts\",\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/katiafabrics\"]},{\"@type\":\"Person\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.katia.com\/blog\/en\/#\/schema\/person\/465f40fa8b2d52eedab1f09e92cec8ae\",\"name\":\"Jenifer Guti\u00e9rrez | Katia Fabrics Team\",\"description\":\"Discover Katia Fabrics, your source of inspiration for creative sewing. Since 2018, we have been creating an exclusive line of fabrics with modern prints and cutting-edge patterns for sewing enthusiasts.\",\"url\":\"https:\/\/www.katia.com\/blog\/en\/author\/katia-fabrics\/\"}]}<\/script>\n<!-- \/ Yoast SEO plugin. -->","yoast_head_json":{"title":"What does cut on the grainline mean? lengthwise, crosswise and bias","description":"What does cut on the grainline mean? Learn the difference on fabrics between the lengthwise grain, the crosswise grain and the bias.","robots":{"index":"index","follow":"follow","max-snippet":"max-snippet:-1","max-image-preview":"max-image-preview:large","max-video-preview":"max-video-preview:-1"},"canonical":"https:\/\/www.katia.com\/blog\/en\/grainline\/","og_locale":"en_US","og_type":"article","og_title":"What does cut on the grainline mean? lengthwise, crosswise and bias","og_description":"What does cut on the grainline mean? Learn the difference on fabrics between the lengthwise grain, the crosswise grain and the bias.","og_url":"https:\/\/www.katia.com\/blog\/en\/grainline\/","og_site_name":"Sewing, crochet and knitting blog | Katia blog","article_publisher":"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/KatiaYarns\/","article_published_time":"2018-08-31T09:00:42+00:00","article_modified_time":"2023-06-14T08:21:19+00:00","og_image":[{"width":1920,"height":728,"url":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.katia.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/hilocontrahilobies-sliderEN-1.jpg?fit=1920%2C728&ssl=1","type":"image\/jpeg"}],"author":"Jenifer Guti\u00e9rrez | Katia Fabrics Team","twitter_card":"summary_large_image","twitter_creator":"@katiayarns","twitter_site":"@katiayarns","twitter_misc":{"Written by":"Jenifer Guti\u00e9rrez | Katia Fabrics Team","Est. reading time":"3 minutes"},"schema":{"@context":"https:\/\/schema.org","@graph":[{"@type":"Article","@id":"https:\/\/www.katia.com\/blog\/en\/grainline\/#article","isPartOf":{"@id":"https:\/\/www.katia.com\/blog\/en\/grainline\/"},"author":{"name":"Jenifer Guti\u00e9rrez | Katia Fabrics Team","@id":"https:\/\/www.katia.com\/blog\/en\/#\/schema\/person\/465f40fa8b2d52eedab1f09e92cec8ae"},"headline":"What does cut on the grainline mean? Learn the difference on fabric between the lengthwise grain, the crosswise grain and the bias","datePublished":"2018-08-31T09:00:42+00:00","dateModified":"2023-06-14T08:21:19+00:00","mainEntityOfPage":{"@id":"https:\/\/www.katia.com\/blog\/en\/grainline\/"},"wordCount":616,"commentCount":0,"publisher":{"@id":"https:\/\/www.katia.com\/blog\/en\/#organization"},"articleSection":["Katia 100% You","Tutorials and patterns"],"inLanguage":"en-US","potentialAction":[{"@type":"CommentAction","name":"Comment","target":["https:\/\/www.katia.com\/blog\/en\/grainline\/#respond"]}]},{"@type":"WebPage","@id":"https:\/\/www.katia.com\/blog\/en\/grainline\/","url":"https:\/\/www.katia.com\/blog\/en\/grainline\/","name":"What does cut on the grainline mean? lengthwise, crosswise and bias","isPartOf":{"@id":"https:\/\/www.katia.com\/blog\/en\/#website"},"datePublished":"2018-08-31T09:00:42+00:00","dateModified":"2023-06-14T08:21:19+00:00","description":"What does cut on the grainline mean? Learn the difference on fabrics between the lengthwise grain, the crosswise grain and the bias.","breadcrumb":{"@id":"https:\/\/www.katia.com\/blog\/en\/grainline\/#breadcrumb"},"inLanguage":"en-US","potentialAction":[{"@type":"ReadAction","target":["https:\/\/www.katia.com\/blog\/en\/grainline\/"]}]},{"@type":"BreadcrumbList","@id":"https:\/\/www.katia.com\/blog\/en\/grainline\/#breadcrumb","itemListElement":[{"@type":"ListItem","position":1,"name":"Home","item":"https:\/\/www.katia.com\/blog\/en\/"},{"@type":"ListItem","position":2,"name":"What does cut on the grainline mean? Learn the difference on fabric between the lengthwise grain, the crosswise grain and the bias"}]},{"@type":"WebSite","@id":"https:\/\/www.katia.com\/blog\/en\/#website","url":"https:\/\/www.katia.com\/blog\/en\/","name":"www.katia.com","description":"Tu blog de crochet, punto, costura o macram\u00e9 con tutoriales para aprender e ideas para tejer y coser piezas \u00fanicas. Blog de Katia, para esp\u00edritus creativos.","publisher":{"@id":"https:\/\/www.katia.com\/blog\/en\/#organization"},"potentialAction":[{"@type":"SearchAction","target":{"@type":"EntryPoint","urlTemplate":"https:\/\/www.katia.com\/blog\/en\/?s={search_term_string}"},"query-input":"required name=search_term_string"}],"inLanguage":"en-US"},{"@type":"Organization","@id":"https:\/\/www.katia.com\/blog\/en\/#organization","name":"Fil Katia, S.A","url":"https:\/\/www.katia.com\/blog\/en\/","logo":{"@type":"ImageObject","inLanguage":"en-US","@id":"https:\/\/www.katia.com\/blog\/en\/#\/schema\/logo\/image\/","url":"https:\/\/www.katia.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/12\/logo_katia.svg","contentUrl":"https:\/\/www.katia.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/12\/logo_katia.svg","width":"600","height":"1200","caption":"Fil Katia, S.A"},"image":{"@id":"https:\/\/www.katia.com\/blog\/en\/#\/schema\/logo\/image\/"},"sameAs":["https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/KatiaYarns\/","https:\/\/twitter.com\/katiayarns","http:\/\/instagram.com\/katiayarns","https:\/\/www.linkedin.com\/company\/fil-katia\/","https:\/\/www.pinterest.com\/KatiaYarns\/","https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/c\/KatiaYarnsFabrics\/videos","https:\/\/www.tiktok.com\/@katiacrafts","https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/katiafabrics"]},{"@type":"Person","@id":"https:\/\/www.katia.com\/blog\/en\/#\/schema\/person\/465f40fa8b2d52eedab1f09e92cec8ae","name":"Jenifer Guti\u00e9rrez | Katia Fabrics Team","description":"Discover Katia Fabrics, your source of inspiration for creative sewing. Since 2018, we have been creating an exclusive line of fabrics with modern prints and cutting-edge patterns for sewing enthusiasts.","url":"https:\/\/www.katia.com\/blog\/en\/author\/katia-fabrics\/"}]}},"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.katia.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/hilocontrahilobies-sliderEN-1.jpg?fit=1920%2C728&ssl=1","jetpack_likes_enabled":true,"jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/peUVQy-oGH","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.katia.com\/blog\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/94903"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.katia.com\/blog\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.katia.com\/blog\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.katia.com\/blog\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/6"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.katia.com\/blog\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=94903"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.katia.com\/blog\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/94903\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.katia.com\/blog\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/119708"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.katia.com\/blog\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=94903"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.katia.com\/blog\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=94903"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.katia.com\/blog\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=94903"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}