Emma Wrap video and pattern by Crochet Road, a crochet stole with tassels to wear all the year round

Hello everyone! My name is Joy Clements and I am the heart and soul behind Crochet Road. I started to crochet around 6 years ago. Since then, it has become my great passion. I like to play with colours and textures and to learn new stitches and techniques. Both my heart and hands are always full when I’m busy crocheting. I live on the Gold Coast (Australia) with my two daughters, sources of inspiration and great masters when it comes to colour. And with my husband, whose patience increases at the same rate as my yarn stash. I have had the opportunity to design for magazines, books and yarn brands. You can discover my work on Instagram, Ravelry, Facebook and my Youtube channel. I am also currently working on my blog crochetroad.com. Right now, I am sharing the pattern for my Emma Wrap with you! Follow the video tutorial to make this romantic crochet stole with tassels using Katia Cotton-Cashmere. Happy crocheting!

Crochet stole with tassels

This vintage look scarf, or stole, is made up of various joined up granny squares. In addition, the tassels add a romantic and very feminine air to the design. My Emma Wrap is made from Katia Cotton-Cashmere. As the yarn name suggests, this is a soft blend of cotton and cashmere. Furthermore, it is an ideal choice for any time of the year. Wrap yourself up in this crochet stole with tassels on cool summer nights, mid-season afternoons and sunny winter days. If you do crochet your own Emma Wrap, please share the results on social media with the hashtags #emmawrap, #crochetroad and #katiayarns.

The Emma Wrap Videotutorial

Design by Joy Clements @crochetroad

Read through pattern carefully before beginning, join-as-you-go patterns can be a challenge, especially if they’re new to you.

For best results ensure you work chain stitches quite tightly.

Here I leave a video for a better comprehension.

Completed motifs are joined to each other as you go. Firstly work one entire motif. Work each subsequent motif until round 4, and join as you go during the remainder of round 4. (See joining instructions below.)

I hope you have enjoyed creating your own Emma Wrap and that you will love to wear this piece. The cotton cashmere yarn has a beautiful drape and with the addition of tassels, this wrap has a romantic vintage feel to it. Happy crocheting!!

Materials

Katia Cotton-Cashmere col. 64: 6 balls

Crochet hook size: 3mm

Abbreviations

US TERMS

• Ch – chain
• Sc – single crochet
• dc – double crochet
• tr – treble crochet
• sl-st – slip stitch
• st(s) – stitch/es
• rep – repeat
• Rnd(s) – round(s)
• picot – Ch4, sl-st worked into top of both loops of 4th Ch from hook (see image 1)
• 2dcCL – (yarn over, insert hook into designated st/space, draw up a loop, yarn over, draw through 2 loops) 2 times in same st/space, yarn over and draw through all 3 loops on hook
• 2trCL – (yarn over twice, insert hook into designated st/space, draw up a loop, yarn over, draw through 2 loops twice) 2 times in same st/space, yarn over and draw through all 3 loops on hook
• PLT sl-st join – (pull loop through, sl-st join) – remove working loop from hook, place hook as directed down through corresponding Ch space on adjacent/opposite motif as indicated, pick up working loop and pull through Ch space, sl-st

GAUGE

First unblocked completed motif measures 9cm x 9cm

Instructions

Rnd1: Ch4, sl-st in beginning Ch to form ring.

Ch2, dc (counts as first 2dcCL throughout), Ch2, *2dcCL, picot, 2dcCL, Ch2* rep ** 2 more times, 2dcCL, picot, sl-st to top of first dc (see image 2).

<8 x 2dcCL, 4 picots, 4 Ch-2 spaces>

Rnd2: (sl-st, Ch2, dc, Ch3, 2dcCL) in next Ch-2sp, Ch7, *(2dcCL, Ch3, 2dcCL) in next Ch-2sp, Ch7*, rep ** around, sl-st to top of first dc (see image 3).

<8 x 2dcCL, 4 Ch-3 spaces, 4 Ch-7 spaces>

Rnd3: (sl-st, Ch2, dc, Ch2, 2trCL, Ch2, 2dcCL, Ch8) in next Ch-3sp, *(2dcCL, Ch2, 2trCL, Ch2, 2dcCL, Ch8) in next Ch-3sp*, rep ** around, sl-st to top of first dc (see image 4).

<8 x 2dcCL, 4 x 2trCL, 12 Ch-2 spaces, 4 Ch-8 sps>

For first full motif, follow these instructions completely for Rnd4. For subsequent motifs, work the round up until a joining point then join as instructed below.

Rnd4: (sl-st, Ch2, dc, Ch 2) in next Ch-2 sp, *(2trCL, ch 4, 2trCL, ch 2) in top of 2trCL, 2dcCL in next Ch-2 sp, Ch7, spike sc enclosing Ch from previous 2 rounds, Ch7,** 2dcCL in next ch-2 sp, Ch2; rep from * three more times, finishing last repeat at **, sl-st to top of first dc. Fasten off.  (see image 5)

<8 x 2dcCL, 8 x 2trCL, 4sc, 8 Ch-2 sps, 4  Ch-4 spaces, 8 Ch-7 spaces>

Joining Instructions

All motifs are joined with right side facing up. These instructions take into consideration my Right hand dominance. Join the first row of motifs from Left to Right – that is, lay motif 2 (the completed motif) to the right of motif 1 (the one being completed) then make the join as outlined below. The order you complete the joins is from one Ch-4 spaces corner, down the side and to the next Ch-4 spaces corner. Join the first 15 motifs into one long row before beginning to join the next row.

How to join corners (images 6, 7, 8)

Begin working round 4, stopping just before the Ch-4 space in the corner of the motif, and replace this Ch4 with: (Ch2, PLT sl-st join, Ch1) (see image 6).

Then complete the corner of the working motif with (2trCL, Ch2) in top of 2trCL, 2dcCL in next Ch-2sp, then join down side & go onto join next corner.

How to join motifs down each side (images 9, 10, 11, 12)

Replace Ch7 with: Ch3, PLT sl-st join to first Ch-7 space on side of adjoining motif, Ch3, spike sc (enclosing Ch of previous 2 rnds) on original motif, Ch3, PLT sl-st join to second Ch-7 space on side of adjoining motif, Ch3), then go onto join the next corner.

For first side length of motifs, continue with remainder of motif – *2dcCL in next Ch-2sp, Ch2, (2trCL, Ch4, 2trCL, Ch2) in top of 2trCL, 2dcCL in next Ch-2sp, Ch7, spike sc enclosing Ch from previous 2 rnds, Ch7*, rep** around, sl-st to top of first dc. Fasten off.

When joining adjacent corners along all four LONG SIDE edges of wrap, join as follows: (Ch2, PLT sl-st join, Ch1) then complete side. (see images 13, 14)

For motif Rows 2, 3, 4 (with each row containing 15 motifs)

When joining corners of motifs that aren’t along sides of wrap, join diagonally opposite corners as you come to them (Ch 2 PLT sl-st join,Ch1). Refer to my videos for more details, and a clear visual example of how to join this project as you go. (see images 8, 9, 10, 11, 12)

How-to for tassel

Make & attach tassels along each short edge. You will need a book or piece of thick corrugated cardboard about 13cm wide. Make 40 full wraps around the width of the cardboard, then cut yarn. Feel free to make tassels with less yarn, but if you use more wraps than 40, you may of course need extra yarn to make 10 tassels. Cut a piece of yarn twice the length of your forearm for tying off top of tassel, slide under all wraps, and make a tight square knot. Slide off cardboard.

Attach to WRONG SIDE of wrap with tight square knot, (See Image 15, stitch markers show where to attach each tassel on wrap). Then bring both strands that were used to tie on tassel down so they become part of the tassel itself. This ensures no ends need weaving in.

Cut a piece of yarn twice the length of your forearm for tying around the entire tassel a few times in the same place, about 2 cm from top of tassel.

Carefully cut looped ends of tassel.

Use a wide toothed comb to comb the strands out, then trim to required length. Steam completed tassel to relax merino and cashmere fibres, and keep the strands of yarn laying straight, forming a neat finished tassel.